Reaching New Heights with the National Ability Center

There is something superhuman about scaling a vertical wall. With the thrill of accomplishment that comes from gazing at the world from a bird’s eye view, it’s no wonder there’s growing momentum and interest in the sport. As visibility around climbing increases, the adaptive climbing scene is rapidly gaining recognition and notoriety. 

To get insight into the world of adaptive climbing, I spoke with Jake Frank, a professional climber from the USA National Para Climbing Team. He is an above the knee bilateral amputee with big Paralympic dreams. “It just got announced last year that we (Para Climbing) are going to be a part of the Paralympics,” he shares. “My biggest goal right now is looking towards LA 2028.” Like many adaptive and accessible stories in sport, his started in Park City with the National Ability Center.

Adaptive Rock Climbing with the National Ability Center

The National Ability Center serves as the starting point for an introduction to adaptive climbing in the Wasatch. “The NAC's adaptive climbing program offers indoor and outdoor climbing for individuals of all ages and abilities,” explains Adventure Program Manager Elisa Banyard. Nestled against the trails of Round Valley in Quinn’s Junction, The Hub is at the heart of the NAC and provides onsite indoor climbing opportunities. “For indoor climbing programs, we have two top rope walls at our main facility,” Elisa describes. “We offer individual and group lessons.”

The NAC also partners with The Front Climbing Club’s two Salt Lake locations to facilitate an ongoing adaptive climbing program, Rock On! “The Front has a list of adaptive programs that they operate,” Jake shares how these groups are ideal for people seeking consistent training opportunities. “It provides a time that you know there's access to training partners and coaching.”

The NAC also fosters outdoor climbing opportunities on some of the iconic Wasatch climbing routes. “For our outdoor climbing programs, we offer lessons in Big Cottonwood

Canyon,” Elisa explains. They also conduct a four-day camping and climbing adventure in Idaho at the City of Rocks. All of the NAC’s adaptive climbing programs align with the organization’s mission, which is that cost should never be a barrier to recreation, so scholarships are readily available. Elisa describes the process of registering for an NAC program. “When someone is interested in learning about one specific program, climbing, for example, we recommend a session lesson, which is five lessons total separated over five weeks. If they are not local, then we can typically get them scheduled for a couple of lessons during the time they are here.” 

A Growing Adaptive Climbing Scene

Jake’s professional climbing career began at the National Ability Center in Park City. He was invited to Empower Fest as an amputee advocate for new amputees. “A part of Empower Fest was a day we spent at the NAC in Park City, and one of the activities was rock climbing.” Jake’s belayer at the NAC was Ben Mayforth, an athlete on the USA National Para Climbing team. When Jake came down after his first ascent, he was hooked, and Ben encouraged him to pursue the sport. “He told me there are 10 other Para Climbers in the area. This is kind of like the Para Climbing hub of America right now.” Jake explains that he moved from North Dakota to Utah because of the adaptive climbing resources.

But Jake’s initial climbing experience on the indoor rock wall at the NAC changed the trajectory of his life. His first taste of the sport came in June 2023, and by September 2023, he had moved to Utah to pursue his dreams of becoming a professional Para Climber. “When I arrived in Utah, I got connected with The Front’s Adaptive Climbing program,” he explains. “I got involved with that group, and we started weekly competition prep practices.”

The support and training opportunities in the area significantly contributed to Jake’s rapid progress in Para Climbing; after four or five months, he entered his first competition, the USA National Team Trials in Maryland. “I ended up getting second place and getting team status my first year of climbing. I was able to compete in the Salt Lake City World Cup last year.”

Jake’s rigorous training schedule includes four days of climbing, two days of weight training, and a “rest day” dedicated to cardio and core, which undoubtedly contributes to his competition success. “When I'm using no prosthetics (in competition), I'm able to get much closer to the wall. I still use what I call my stubs, or my residual limbs. The climbing style is very tight on the wall; it’s a lot of campusing. Flow and dynamics are the most important things when you're a campus climber.” 

While dedication to training is essential for Jake’s progression, it’s his unwavering positivity and hope that form the foundation of his successful climbing vocation. His Instagram handle @jakewithnolegs features posts with hashtags like #nolegsnoproblem and #AttitudeofGratitude, which illustrate the approach he brings to the sport. “My biggest piece of advice is, it's all about attitude. It's going to be whatever you make it,” he shares. “If you go on with the mindset of, ‘Here's this monumental goal, let's try everything I can to tackle it.’ You’re going to have an amazing experience.”

Jake continues to maintain that outlook even while facing significant barriers in his pursuit of competing in LA at the 2028 Paralympics. “My biggest hurdle right now in my climbing career is not having my career as climbing…  I work eight hours a day and then spend three hours a night at the gym,” he explains. “Adaptive climbing doesn’t have the same exposure as normal climbing. We don’t have those endorsement and sponsorship opportunities that a non-adaptive climber would have.” Fortunately, since Para Climbing was announced as an official Paralympic event, new funding and resources are coming to the sport.

Jake’s vision for his climbing career doesn’t stop with the 2028 Paralympic Games. “My passion is outdoor climbing,” he explains how movement and technique in outdoor climbing differ from his competition training. “Outdoor climbing is more endurance, core, and lower body focused. I'm mainly using my upper body to project myself up, but I have my prosthetics to rest on and to use as tools as well; they assist me up the mountain.”

Jake has grand visions for pushing the boundaries of adaptive outdoor climbing. “I would love to start working down the top 50 famous climbs of North America.” He began with top roping at the NAC, and that experience led to goals of competing in the Paralympics and climbing world-renowned routes like Yosemite’s El Capitan. “There's a difference in Para Climbing. However, we’re sending just as hard, and we're doing just as crazy things. It's just that it looks a little different.” 

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