As the weather turns colder a palpable excitement is brewing at my house, an energy lacking during the miserably hot days signaling the end of summer. But now it's holiday time and things are looking up. We aren't particularly original, but we do look forward to the yearly routine: baking molasses cookies, decorating our front windows with silver, red, and green ribbon-draped glass bulbs, and playing "The Messiah" until the kids beg for mercy. It also involves a day trip to Disneyland, a tradition I count on to kick start the holiday season. But this year my plans have been foiled. The hubby and kids have had it with my ritual "oohs" and "ahs" as the thousands of tiny pastel lights switch on at the It's a Small World ride. They're itching for some action and making no bones about it. So this year we're off to Park City, Utah, the same former silver mining town and winter hot spot that hosts the annual Sundance Film Festival each January and was home to the 2002 Winter Olympics. For the full story...